If you can't get enough Downton Abbey it’s time to rent Brideshead Revisited. Downton is a light lunch compared to Brideshead’s feast of many episodes. If you are unfamiliar with the book by Evelyn Waugh and the film, or series, it chronicles the story of a “middle class” fellow interacting with the aristocratic Flyte family from post World War One to the Second World War. Long and lush, you see the opulent life of the very wealthy brought to you by a substantial television budget from the 1970’s. We’ll never see the like of either again.
I enjoy watching the series but the characters are not terribly likable. Sweet, handsome, alcoholic Sebastian is sort of lovable but he leaves the story and viewers feel as bereft from his loss as his family does. And I am forced to wonder what does Charles Ryder see in Julia except her aristocratic upbringing? What does she see in him? What do they do all day? What have they to offer the world? Charles Ryder suffers through every relationship of his life bored to tears with his own family, his wife, his children, his flamboyant Oxford friends; everybody but Sebastian and Julia Flyte (and she, frankly is the most boring of them all).
I have just read a book called Mad World about the real house and families that inspired Brideshead. Oddly, Waugh and his friends, and there were many of them, come across as vastly more fun, kind, and loving than the stiffs in the series.
Now let’s eat. In the book, and briefly in the series (but not in the film) Charles Ryder has a private club dinner with Rex Mottram, the Canadian businessman and politician who will marry Julie Flyte.
" I was there twenty minutes before Rex. If I had to spend an evening with him, it should, at any rate, be in my own way. I remember the evening well-- soup of oseille, a sole quite simply cooked in a white wine sauce, a caneton a la presse, a lemon soufflé. At the last minute, fearing the whole thing was too simple for Rex I added caviare aux blinis. And for the wine I let him give me a bottle of 1916 Montrachet, then at its prime, and with the duck, a Clos de Bere of 1904.”
Since not many or you will have a duck press handy I’ll give you the Lemon Soufflé. Only many people break out in hives at the thought of creating a soufflé. So I’ll give you a fail proof mousse.
Lemon Mousse
5 eggs
1 cup sugar
1/4-pound sweet butter, melted
1 cup fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
1 ½ to 2 cups heavy cream
Beat the eggs and the sugar until pale.
Slowly pour in the butter while blending.
Add the lemon juice and zest.
Place over a double boiler.
Stir with a wooden spoon until thick, 10 – 15 minutes.
Cover with plastic wrap and cool completely for at least two hours.
Whip the cream to a loose or thick consistency depending on your preference.
Fold the cooled lemon mixture with the whipped cream.
Serve in individual dishes with mint and/or lemon zest garnish.